Ancient Land, Pastures New
The Creation of a Small English Vineyard
Published 6 September 2024 by West Berks Press
This is a new book on the English wine scene written from ‘the coal face’ by a boutique wine producer of sparkling wine.
In Ancient Land, Pastures New, Christopher Cooke offers a monthly account of the trials and tribulations he and his partner experience planting a boutique vineyard from scratch on ancient pasture in a beautiful part of West Berkshire; the ups and downs of nurturing its development over ten years; the descriptions of the passing seasons in the vineyard as they grapple with a chaotic climate; and the huge pleasures provided by the helpers, friends and charming visitors who come to visit or lend a hand.
And, not forgetting, of course, the joys of producing English sparkling wine in a cool climate.
Told in a light style with wry humour, the book could be seen as a cross between a vigneron’s alternative to A Year in Provence and a vine-hikers A-Z guide to planting in England.
The book is a mix of personal diaries covering the planning, creation and running of the vineyard, with chapters on organics, what Mother Nature throws at us on a regular basis, and the art of ‘low intervention’ winemaking.
The appendices cover the subject of viticulture and biodynamic wine growing in more detail.
The discussion of regenerative viticulture and how Winding Wood Vineyard embraced organics should give the book an extra appeal.
Having been immersed in the English wine scene for over ten years and chairman of one of the English wine regions, Christopher is fortunate to know many of the movers and shakers in what is a young, exciting industry – the newest of new world wine regions.
Over the last few years, the sparkling wines from Winding Wood have won numerous wine awards in national competition.
This year their brut rosé won a gold medal and the sparkling wine trophy at the Independent English Wine Awards.
The brut and rosé wines have also just won gold medals at the WineGB 2024 Awards and the brut rosé the for the top rosé sparkling. Small can certainly be beautiful.
Christopher has spent most of his career in publishing, firstly in books and latterly in consumer magazines.
He fulfilled a lifetime’s ambition in the early 2000s by buying a bookshop in Hungerford, Berkshire. It continues to thrive to this day.
He now sleeps with a pair of secateurs under his pillow.
Reviews for the book
‘This book is at its best when you read it as a diary – chatty, informative, sometimes quite private, sometimes positively philosophical. And always honest. As Christopher says, “Life in the vineyard would not be the same without the regular existential crisis.”
And so it proves as Christopher battles frosts, pests, the English weather and Brexit.’
Oz Clarke, OBE
‘This is a must read for anyone contemplating planting a vineyard so they can better understand the commitment they are making. The romance of wine is entrancing, and Christopher Cooke’s experience firmly strips away the rose tinted spectacles.’
Simon Robinson Chairman of Hattingley Valley and ex-Chairman of WineGB
‘Having been a small part of the Winding Wood journey from the time of their first harvest, it was wonderful to fill in the gaps of their adventure all the way to their current success. Robert and Christopher were unfailingly cheerful throughout the years I was responsible for making their wine and this book is further proof of their positivity in the face of the inevitable adversity that comes with tending an English vineyard. A really, interesting and positive read.’
Emma Rice, Winemaker, Twice UKVA Winemaker of the Year
‘An invaluable insight into the rigours and near obsession needed to produce healthy grapes and distinctive wines. This book will either inspire you or put you off having a vineyard.’
Hugo Stewart, Domaine Hugo
‘Christopher writes with humour, insight and a keen sense of the dramatic about the difficulties of growing exceptional grapes in his small vineyard in Berkshire. Do not even think about planting a vineyard without reading a copy of Ancient Land, Pastures New. I only wish I could have had some Christopher’s insight before writing my own book on English wine.’
Henry Jeffreys, Wines in a Cold Climate, 2022 Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year
‘Being able to perfectly position a written work as both a joyful exploration, a cautionary tale, an instructional manual and a heartfelt diary, is a task approximately as challenging and monumental as creating the finest sparkling rosé in England from a small biodynamic vineyard in Berkshire – but Ancient Land Pastures New achieves exactly that. An essential, rewarding read not just for English wine geeks, but for those who might like to learn much, much more about the English wine movement.’
Alex Taylor, Founder, Independent English Wine Awards
Christopher Cooke 07798 885050
hello@windingwoodvineyard.co.uk or cc.cooke@gmail.com
https://www.windingwoodvineyard.co.uk
This week on Paul Presents, Paul chats to Christopher Cooke about his new book.
